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ALCATRAZ : THE ROCK |
If you are visiting San Francisco, do not miss out on the chance to see this remarkable place with it's sometimes unexpected history
Before visiting, I thought I knew 3 things about Alcatraz.... 1. It had only ever been a prison 2. It was designed to house only the most evil of criminals 3. No-one had ever escaped from Alcatraz In fact, the first two of my assumptions were wrong and there is some real doubt about the third one! |
Introduction
There has been some kind of structure on Alcatraz Island since 1853.
However, it was only a high security civilian prison for 30 years (1934-1963) or less than 20% of the "occupancy" of this "rock". At other times it was mainly a fortification or a military detention centre and, today, it is an historical site and preserved natural habitat.
Early History
After around 9,000 years of the island's geological existence, Alcatraz received it's name, translated as " The Island of the Pelicans" from the Spanish explorer, Juan Manuel de Ayala. At that time, there was a huge colony of Pelicans occupying the islands although I believe that you will not see them there today.
Juan was a well-known figure of his time and is also famous for naming Los Angeles
There has been some kind of structure on Alcatraz Island since 1853.
However, it was only a high security civilian prison for 30 years (1934-1963) or less than 20% of the "occupancy" of this "rock". At other times it was mainly a fortification or a military detention centre and, today, it is an historical site and preserved natural habitat.
Early History
After around 9,000 years of the island's geological existence, Alcatraz received it's name, translated as " The Island of the Pelicans" from the Spanish explorer, Juan Manuel de Ayala. At that time, there was a huge colony of Pelicans occupying the islands although I believe that you will not see them there today.
Juan was a well-known figure of his time and is also famous for naming Los Angeles
The next person worth bringing into the Alcatraz story is Pio Pica, the last Mexican Governor of California. A very interesting guy whose two terms totalled only around 1 year, the first occupancy being only 20 days and the second cut short by the Americans having the bad manners to occupy California in a rather short affair in 1846, the details of which are outside the scope of this blog.
It is interesting to note that Pio Pica tried to arrange for the British to take over California instead of the Americans. What a pity for us Brits that he failed. It would be nice to own somewhere warm where English was widely spoken !!! ( And have someone to trade with after Brexit!)
His main connection with Alcatraz was his vision to build a first ever Pacific coast - based lighthouse on the island. He did not get the chance to fulfil this project but such a building was erected later during military occupation and was indeed the first of it's kind.
Fortification
Alcatraz began to acquire it's current "shape" in 1853 when construction of a fort commenced.
This development came as no surprise given the strategic location of the island, effectively guarding a large part of the San Francisco Bay.
Alcatraz began to acquire it's current "shape" in 1853 when construction of a fort commenced.
This development came as no surprise given the strategic location of the island, effectively guarding a large part of the San Francisco Bay.
In fact the plan was to build three similar fortifications to completely protect the area.
The other two, Fort Point and Lime Point can be seen under the Golden Gate Bridge ( although I think they were both re-located at some point and may have been elsewhere when first constructed. Perhaps someone can confirm this...)
War
In 1861, Civil War broke out in America and Alcatraz, now a fortified island, became an important strategic location for the Union army.
There were several attempts by the Confederates to take control of the fort. All the attempts failed, some through the deadly combination of alcohol and incompetence.
During this time, locally-identified Pro-Confederate supporters, or even relatives of same, were accused of treason and lesser offences. They were then held without trial on the island. So, without wishing to appear too controversial, in one way, it could be described as a kind of 19th century Guantanamo Bay.
In 1861, Civil War broke out in America and Alcatraz, now a fortified island, became an important strategic location for the Union army.
There were several attempts by the Confederates to take control of the fort. All the attempts failed, some through the deadly combination of alcohol and incompetence.
During this time, locally-identified Pro-Confederate supporters, or even relatives of same, were accused of treason and lesser offences. They were then held without trial on the island. So, without wishing to appear too controversial, in one way, it could be described as a kind of 19th century Guantanamo Bay.
In another incident, the local Union commander mistakenly fired warning shots at an approaching British ship which had not been identified correctly. The British captain reported that he was "displeased with the incident"... a very typical British understatement !.
Prison
The army continued to occupy Alcatraz using it for various purposes including training and a preparation place for soldiers going overseas.
In 1934, it became a high security prison and was transferred to civilian control under the Department of Justice. Now we enter the period for which this location is best known.
The army continued to occupy Alcatraz using it for various purposes including training and a preparation place for soldiers going overseas.
In 1934, it became a high security prison and was transferred to civilian control under the Department of Justice. Now we enter the period for which this location is best known.
As I learned when visiting "The Rock", Alcatraz was not designed to house the worst criminals. Although there were some very famous "guests" such as Al "Scarface" Capone and George "Machine Gun" Kelly, the main criteria for selecting the inmates were either that they were "disruptive" in their current prison or were considered a serious escape risk.
Security was high and, as you can see, the accommodation was 2 star at best. Nevertheless, it was not regarded by "experienced" prisoners as an overly unpleasant place compared with other similar locations.
It was, however, probably the prison with the most internal "rules".
Put another way, prisoners reported that it was the most "controlled" prison environment they had known.
Here is a list of the rules. It used to be possible get a free download but no longer so forgive formatting quality. (I had to extract from other publications
Security was high and, as you can see, the accommodation was 2 star at best. Nevertheless, it was not regarded by "experienced" prisoners as an overly unpleasant place compared with other similar locations.
It was, however, probably the prison with the most internal "rules".
Put another way, prisoners reported that it was the most "controlled" prison environment they had known.
Here is a list of the rules. It used to be possible get a free download but no longer so forgive formatting quality. (I had to extract from other publications
alcatraz_rules_and_regulations_pdf.pdf | |
File Size: | 73 kb |
File Type: |
My personal favourite is Rule 46 whereby you are allowed to play a musical instrument as long as you don't sing or whistle along with your playing!
also, a rule I wished I had thought about when I was working :
Rule 23 covering complaints states...
"...... Complaints if made by you to the proper officials will receive careful consideration. However, if you make groundless complaints for the purpose of creating dissatisfaction and/or stirring up trouble ; or if you agitate or "rib" yourself or others into trouble, you may be subject to disciplinary action.
Also, in the public domain, I found this interesting sketch of the cell layout where everything had to be in order in a fixed placed (not like any room I have occupied !)
Eventually 1545 prisoners were recorded as spending some time on Alcatraz. The design and location of the prison meant that only around 1 in 50 prisoners ever attempted to escape.
also, a rule I wished I had thought about when I was working :
Rule 23 covering complaints states...
"...... Complaints if made by you to the proper officials will receive careful consideration. However, if you make groundless complaints for the purpose of creating dissatisfaction and/or stirring up trouble ; or if you agitate or "rib" yourself or others into trouble, you may be subject to disciplinary action.
Also, in the public domain, I found this interesting sketch of the cell layout where everything had to be in order in a fixed placed (not like any room I have occupied !)
Eventually 1545 prisoners were recorded as spending some time on Alcatraz. The design and location of the prison meant that only around 1 in 50 prisoners ever attempted to escape.
The "Big" Question
Here we come, in my view, to one of the most fascinating questions : " Did anyone actually escape "The Rock"?
The official answer is that there were 14 escape attempts and they all failed with the 36 escapees being re-captured, killed or drowned (presumed)
In most case, the outcome is undisputed but many people believe that 1 attempt was successful.
This concerned 3 prisoners, 2 of whom were brothers - Frank Morris, John and Clarence Anglin.
After they left the island, no concrete evidence of the death or survival was found. The full story of their escape can be read here... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/June_1962_Alcatraz_escape
The family of the escapees are convinced, by various events and items, that the two brothers were alive up to at least 1975 although indisputable evidence seems to be still missing.
It should be noted that there were quite some politics around the incident. Certainly the the FBI, led by the controversial founder J Edgar Hoover ( see... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J._Edgar_Hoover ) very much wanted to retain the reputation of the prison as escape-proof.
The end of "The Rock" was unexciting as it was just a financial decision.
The then Attorney General, Robert F Kennedy closed the site when maintenance costs became too high and all the remaining prisoners were transferred out.
Here we come, in my view, to one of the most fascinating questions : " Did anyone actually escape "The Rock"?
The official answer is that there were 14 escape attempts and they all failed with the 36 escapees being re-captured, killed or drowned (presumed)
In most case, the outcome is undisputed but many people believe that 1 attempt was successful.
This concerned 3 prisoners, 2 of whom were brothers - Frank Morris, John and Clarence Anglin.
After they left the island, no concrete evidence of the death or survival was found. The full story of their escape can be read here... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/June_1962_Alcatraz_escape
The family of the escapees are convinced, by various events and items, that the two brothers were alive up to at least 1975 although indisputable evidence seems to be still missing.
It should be noted that there were quite some politics around the incident. Certainly the the FBI, led by the controversial founder J Edgar Hoover ( see... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J._Edgar_Hoover ) very much wanted to retain the reputation of the prison as escape-proof.
The end of "The Rock" was unexciting as it was just a financial decision.
The then Attorney General, Robert F Kennedy closed the site when maintenance costs became too high and all the remaining prisoners were transferred out.
The Indian Occupation
After the prison closed, a number of proposals were made as to the future use of the island, including a theme park based on space travel!.
But, while everyone was thinking what to do about the site, a group of 89 Native American activists took matters into their own hands. Under an old treaty made in 1868, a case could be made that federal land originally stolen from Native Americans should be returned to them after it's use was discontinued. Alcatraz would appear to be a relevant case.
They received support and supplies from various sympathisers which I am pleased to say included the fabulous Creedence Clearwater Revival band.
Based on the historical precedent of the purchase ( some would say theft...) of Manhattan, the occupiers offered to purchase the island for some beads and other items valued in total at USD 24 !. This generous proposal was not accepted....
Unfortunately as time progressed, there were a number of political, health and other disruptive problems including a certain "highjacking" of the protest by "hippies" and drug addicts.
There was also the very sad incident of a child who fell to her death on the island.
After 19 months, the protest more or less, fell apart with declining numbers of occupiers and too many organisational problems.
It's matter of debate as to the long term effect of the occupancy but, unquestionably, it did, for a period, bring such Indian issues to public attention.
When you visit you will see plenty of evidence of the occupation still visible today.
Visiting
All of the above is , more or less, factual but to really understand Alcatraz, you must take the tour.
Warning... it is usually very well booked so try to get your tickets in advance online.
Here is a relevant link.. http://www.alcatrazislandtickets.com/?gclid=CM_o--ewv9MCFY9_vQodhxkDfw
The excellent tour guides really bring the place to life and give a strong sense of what life must have been like both for the prisoners and the guards in this isolated environment
They have many stories. I particularly liked the fact that the prisoners were all warned of the sharks in the water around the island.
The guards even spread a story that one large shark had a damaged fin and therefore circled the island continuously ! (In fact, these local sharks are not man-eaters but presumably there were no shark experts amongst the prisoners..)
After the prison closed, a number of proposals were made as to the future use of the island, including a theme park based on space travel!.
But, while everyone was thinking what to do about the site, a group of 89 Native American activists took matters into their own hands. Under an old treaty made in 1868, a case could be made that federal land originally stolen from Native Americans should be returned to them after it's use was discontinued. Alcatraz would appear to be a relevant case.
They received support and supplies from various sympathisers which I am pleased to say included the fabulous Creedence Clearwater Revival band.
Based on the historical precedent of the purchase ( some would say theft...) of Manhattan, the occupiers offered to purchase the island for some beads and other items valued in total at USD 24 !. This generous proposal was not accepted....
Unfortunately as time progressed, there were a number of political, health and other disruptive problems including a certain "highjacking" of the protest by "hippies" and drug addicts.
There was also the very sad incident of a child who fell to her death on the island.
After 19 months, the protest more or less, fell apart with declining numbers of occupiers and too many organisational problems.
It's matter of debate as to the long term effect of the occupancy but, unquestionably, it did, for a period, bring such Indian issues to public attention.
When you visit you will see plenty of evidence of the occupation still visible today.
Visiting
All of the above is , more or less, factual but to really understand Alcatraz, you must take the tour.
Warning... it is usually very well booked so try to get your tickets in advance online.
Here is a relevant link.. http://www.alcatrazislandtickets.com/?gclid=CM_o--ewv9MCFY9_vQodhxkDfw
The excellent tour guides really bring the place to life and give a strong sense of what life must have been like both for the prisoners and the guards in this isolated environment
They have many stories. I particularly liked the fact that the prisoners were all warned of the sharks in the water around the island.
The guards even spread a story that one large shark had a damaged fin and therefore circled the island continuously ! (In fact, these local sharks are not man-eaters but presumably there were no shark experts amongst the prisoners..)
Robert Luke
When my son and I toured Alcatraz, we were extremely lucky that this co-incided with the monthly visit of an ex-inmate.
Thus we met Robert Luke, an ex-armed robber and Alcatraz "guest" from 1954 to 1959. He told us that it took 50 years before he felt he could come back to the prison.
He is a great guy and gave us his time freely.
He autographed his book " Entombed in Alcatraz" which I strongly recommend for it's honest and open account of his life.
Here is one of several YouTube clips of Robert. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPQpvfgwlj0
When my son and I toured Alcatraz, we were extremely lucky that this co-incided with the monthly visit of an ex-inmate.
Thus we met Robert Luke, an ex-armed robber and Alcatraz "guest" from 1954 to 1959. He told us that it took 50 years before he felt he could come back to the prison.
He is a great guy and gave us his time freely.
He autographed his book " Entombed in Alcatraz" which I strongly recommend for it's honest and open account of his life.
Here is one of several YouTube clips of Robert. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPQpvfgwlj0
Closing remarks.
I found Alcatraz to be one of the most interesting and thought-provoking tourist trips I have made. Taking the boat to the island, it was easy to imagine how the prisoners would have felt knowing how isolated they would be and, in many cases, not knowing how long they would be on the "Rock'.
Robert Luke talks of how unusually quiet were the new inmates as they crossed the water to this unknown future.
I read somewhere that the prison was designed so that the inmates could see San Francisco from many of the cells and communal areas and that this was a kind of psychological additional punishment to emphasise that they were so far from, and so near to, freedom.
I now want to look for any book which covers Alcatraz from the point of view of the guards who were often said to be equally constrained and even felt some of the isolation experienced by the prisoners themselves.
I found Alcatraz to be one of the most interesting and thought-provoking tourist trips I have made. Taking the boat to the island, it was easy to imagine how the prisoners would have felt knowing how isolated they would be and, in many cases, not knowing how long they would be on the "Rock'.
Robert Luke talks of how unusually quiet were the new inmates as they crossed the water to this unknown future.
I read somewhere that the prison was designed so that the inmates could see San Francisco from many of the cells and communal areas and that this was a kind of psychological additional punishment to emphasise that they were so far from, and so near to, freedom.
I now want to look for any book which covers Alcatraz from the point of view of the guards who were often said to be equally constrained and even felt some of the isolation experienced by the prisoners themselves.
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