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hobart : explorers, flags, yachts and a zoo!
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Introduction
When I was young (about 100 years ago!), my free time was dominated by folk music, particularly the so-called "electric folk" version made popular by groups such as Steeleye Span and Fairport Convention.
Many of these songs concerned people punished for minor crimes by being sent as convicts to work in Australia under the policy of transportation.
In many of the songs I knew well, the exact destination for these unfortunates was "Van Dieman's Land"
When I found out that Van Dieman's Land was, in fact the old name for Tasmania, I put this part of Australia at the top of my "wish list", a wish which I have just fulfilled.
Actually, I did not concern myself directly with the convict history of this part of the world as I had covered that last year with visits to prison sites in Freemantle and Melbourne
On the advice of a friend, I arranged to spend my time in the capital, Hobart and around that area. Here are a few "souvenirs" of my visit:
The Modest Explorer
(I am grateful to the actor and broadcaster, Tony Robinson, who featured this story in one of his excellent documentaries)
Without doubt, one of the most attractive old buildings in Hobart is the General Post Office.
The foundation stone for this structure was laid in 1901 by the future King George V and Queen Mary and was completed 4 years later
In 1912, a strange looking man. allegedly in heavy and unusual winter clothes (now believed to have been made from animal fur) entered the building to send a telegram.
(I am grateful to the actor and broadcaster, Tony Robinson, who featured this story in one of his excellent documentaries)
Without doubt, one of the most attractive old buildings in Hobart is the General Post Office.
The foundation stone for this structure was laid in 1901 by the future King George V and Queen Mary and was completed 4 years later
In 1912, a strange looking man. allegedly in heavy and unusual winter clothes (now believed to have been made from animal fur) entered the building to send a telegram.
The person to whom the telegram was addressed was the King of Norway and the sender was the famous explorer, Roald Amundsen.
It was to confirm that Amundsen had become the first person to reach the South Pole.
Accounts differ on the exact sequence of events but it seems that, since arriving shortly before in Hobart, Amundsen had not announced his achievement. This was said to be because of some complaints when he gave news of earlier expeditions to his financial backers before his King!
Amundsen is said to have been treated quite discourteously at his hotel, probably due to his odd clothes and reluctance to identify himself fully.
It was to confirm that Amundsen had become the first person to reach the South Pole.
Accounts differ on the exact sequence of events but it seems that, since arriving shortly before in Hobart, Amundsen had not announced his achievement. This was said to be because of some complaints when he gave news of earlier expeditions to his financial backers before his King!
Amundsen is said to have been treated quite discourteously at his hotel, probably due to his odd clothes and reluctance to identify himself fully.
The somewhat prestigious hotel in question, called Hadley's Orient still exists, today, and, until I saw the price, I nearly took afternoon tea there!
Amundsen had also become the first man to lead a shipping expedition (1903-1906) through the dangerous so-called North West Passage (see separate notes on this matter)
By a strange co-incidence, within sight of the Post Office and the "discourteous" Hadley Hotel, is a statue of Sir John Franklin, who gave his life in a fatal pursuit of the same shipping route some 60 or so years earlier. The statue was erected in 1865, primarily to celebrate Franklin's period as Lieutenant-Governor of what was then still called Van Diemans Land.
Franklin is a bit of a hero of mine so it was nice to see a connection, which I hadn't heard before arriving in Hobart, with the Amundsen story.
Apparently, Amundsen was also a "fan" and stated that, at the age of 15, reading Franklin's narratives inspired his later interest in the North West Passage.
Sadly, while taking part in a rescue mission seeking the crew of a crashed airship, Amundsen's plane was lost. Some small parts of the aircraft were found but the exact site of the plane crash and the location of the lost crew remains a mystery.
Franklin is a bit of a hero of mine so it was nice to see a connection, which I hadn't heard before arriving in Hobart, with the Amundsen story.
Apparently, Amundsen was also a "fan" and stated that, at the age of 15, reading Franklin's narratives inspired his later interest in the North West Passage.
Sadly, while taking part in a rescue mission seeking the crew of a crashed airship, Amundsen's plane was lost. Some small parts of the aircraft were found but the exact site of the plane crash and the location of the lost crew remains a mystery.
The Race to find the North West Passage
Basically, this refers to the efforts to find a route through the northern ice packs, whereby you would be able to sail directly from the Atlantic Ocean through the Arctic Circle to the Beaufort Sea and then on to the south of Russia. Effectively, this would create a much faster and cheaper way to trade between Europe and Asia and, was also to be valued as a way to ship goods from one side of America to the other. Although, this map is an unconventional layout, it is useful to show the number and complexity of the small islands which Amundsen and previous explorers had to consider when trying to find a workable way through this inhospitable part of the world. This quest was described by one writer as being the 19th century equivalent of the 20th century's Space Race . I suppose he was referring to the complexity, prestige and competitiveness involved. |
It certainly did prove to be a challenge which, in some ways, is still being faced.
The first recorded attempt to find a way through the ice was in 1497 and a route was not successfully travelled until Amundsen's at the very beginning of the 20th century. I was surprised to find that throughout the next 100 years after Amundsen's success, only a few ships (normally specially equipped vessels) made the journey. This included one submarine that travelled under the ice (which I think is a bit of a cheat!)
In fact, the only reason the North West Passage is now being opened up to commercial traffic is because global warming has reduced the intensity and amount of ice present all year round. Another key factor is the availability of satellite images giving sea captains very accurate information on the surface ice locations.
So, when you think about this, you realise how brave were the explorers who tried to find this route and, especially, the achievement of Amundsen in doing so.
The first recorded attempt to find a way through the ice was in 1497 and a route was not successfully travelled until Amundsen's at the very beginning of the 20th century. I was surprised to find that throughout the next 100 years after Amundsen's success, only a few ships (normally specially equipped vessels) made the journey. This included one submarine that travelled under the ice (which I think is a bit of a cheat!)
In fact, the only reason the North West Passage is now being opened up to commercial traffic is because global warming has reduced the intensity and amount of ice present all year round. Another key factor is the availability of satellite images giving sea captains very accurate information on the surface ice locations.
So, when you think about this, you realise how brave were the explorers who tried to find this route and, especially, the achievement of Amundsen in doing so.
Battery Point
At the risk of sounding like a contributor to "Trip Advisor", I have to say that this suburb of Hobart is an absolute "must-see".
It is located a short walk from the Town Centre and named after a battery of guns located there in the early part of the 19th Century.
Many of the houses date back to this time and occupants would have included seamen and members of the military
At the risk of sounding like a contributor to "Trip Advisor", I have to say that this suburb of Hobart is an absolute "must-see".
It is located a short walk from the Town Centre and named after a battery of guns located there in the early part of the 19th Century.
Many of the houses date back to this time and occupants would have included seamen and members of the military
If you do walk around the area, keep an eye open for the house with a side gate built and painted to represent Dr Who's Tardis from the highly successful UK science fiction series. I was lucky enough to meet the owner who informed me that her husband built it being a "Big Fan" of the TV programme.
If you walk towards the river, then the next special building you will see is the Signal Station.
Built in 1818, originally, it was a military guardhouse with a good view of the river approach to Hobart
However, it was soon re-designated to be one of a chain of signal stations conveying all kinds of messages including shipping information, military communications and government pronouncements.
Built in 1818, originally, it was a military guardhouse with a good view of the river approach to Hobart
However, it was soon re-designated to be one of a chain of signal stations conveying all kinds of messages including shipping information, military communications and government pronouncements.
The signalling process involving the hoisting of certain flags and/or the use of the black movable arms
The latter option was based on the naval method of signalling - semaphore, which consisted of waving flags with your arms (you can read more detail here)
Compared with your mobile phones, they had several benefits :
1. You didn't have to worry about your battery running out (although your arms could get tired)
2. It was impossible to use at the dinner table
3. There was no loudspeaker to annoy others
4. The same system lasted for many years and you didn't need to upgrade your hardware
5. The flags were very pretty
It was, however, rather easy to "hack" requiring only a pair of binoculars and a piece of paper.
By around 1860, South Australia was an advanced user of the "new" electric telegraph thus making this kind of signal station redundant.
Finally, on this mini-tour of the area, here is the picture of a very ordinary structure which, once per year, each Xmas, is the focus of great attention when it is the exact finish line of the famous Sydney to Hobart yacht race
It is the judges' location called Castray Box, named after Luke Richard Castray, Commissioner General in the 19th century, who is known for his design and infrastructure development work in this part of Hobart.
There is a very comprehensive review of the race and it's 75 year history here
Sadly, for many of us who do not follow yachting, our main memory of this event is the 1998 race, where near-hurricane level winds created dreadful conditions causing the loss of 5 boats and, more tragically, 6 lives. However, through an extensive search and rescue operation 55 sailors were saved.
The event generated a lot of criticism about how weather information was compiled and presented to the yachts
Currently there is an excellent documentary on this matter on YouTube here
It is the judges' location called Castray Box, named after Luke Richard Castray, Commissioner General in the 19th century, who is known for his design and infrastructure development work in this part of Hobart.
There is a very comprehensive review of the race and it's 75 year history here
Sadly, for many of us who do not follow yachting, our main memory of this event is the 1998 race, where near-hurricane level winds created dreadful conditions causing the loss of 5 boats and, more tragically, 6 lives. However, through an extensive search and rescue operation 55 sailors were saved.
The event generated a lot of criticism about how weather information was compiled and presented to the yachts
Currently there is an excellent documentary on this matter on YouTube here
The Story of Beaumaris Zoo
(sometimes called Hobart Zoo)
First, a remark...There is no zoo currently in the city of Hobart. So, if you want to see the famous Tasmanian Devil, you have to look elsewhere.
In this respect, I recommend the popular tour to the delightful town of Richmond (includes the biggest lollypop shop in the world ..they claim) and the nearby Wildlife Sanctuary with plenty of Tasmanian Devils to see.
(sometimes called Hobart Zoo)
First, a remark...There is no zoo currently in the city of Hobart. So, if you want to see the famous Tasmanian Devil, you have to look elsewhere.
In this respect, I recommend the popular tour to the delightful town of Richmond (includes the biggest lollypop shop in the world ..they claim) and the nearby Wildlife Sanctuary with plenty of Tasmanian Devils to see.
Well........Back to Beaumaris Zoo
Beaumaris Zoo was, originally, a private collection of animals opened to the public in 1895 at the residence of Mary Grant Roberts in Battery Point. Although she had no formal education in zoology, she became well-known for her knowledge of animals and, especially, her programme to breed Tasmanian Devils and Tasmanian Tigers ( also known as Thylacines)
After her death in 1921, her family offered her collection of animals to the local government of Hobart
There followed a period of two years, during which there was some uncertainty about the future of the collection.
However, through the work of Arthur Reid, originally a native of Edinburgh, now appointed as curator, the zoo opened in 1923, at a new location, Queens Domain, an attractive site overlooking the River Derwent
Although Arthur was well known in the community, it was his daughter, Alison, who became more famous as she often walked her pet leopard, Mike, through the town. Alison was evidently a bit mischievous, deliberately scaring people she didn't like by pretending the leopard was going to attack them. Eventually after many complaints, she was obliged to end her town walks.
After her father's health was affected by a violent burglary incident, Alison became, effectively, the manager of the zoo. However, when Arthur Reid died in 1935, she was passed over as his replacement because the authorities considered it an inappropriate role for a woman.
Considering the zoo only existed because of a woman, in the first place, it was an even more nonsensical decision.
With a great deal of hypocrisy, the authorities allowed Alison to manage the zoo, day to day, but she was never given the keys to the site.
In fact, there are reports that she was used shamelessly as cheap labour carrying much of the responsibility for the animals but with no respect given to her recommendations, no formal title and ultimately dismissed. There was an official appointed as the person in charge of the zoo but as he was apparently rarely on site, his contribution seems negligible.
Considering the zoo only existed because of a woman, in the first place, it was an even more nonsensical decision.
With a great deal of hypocrisy, the authorities allowed Alison to manage the zoo, day to day, but she was never given the keys to the site.
In fact, there are reports that she was used shamelessly as cheap labour carrying much of the responsibility for the animals but with no respect given to her recommendations, no formal title and ultimately dismissed. There was an official appointed as the person in charge of the zoo but as he was apparently rarely on site, his contribution seems negligible.
In fact, the mistreatment of Alison is claimed by some sources to be the cause of the loss of what was believed to be the world's last remaining Tasmanian Tiger in 1936.
I found the story to be a little confusing but, somehow, ignoring Alison's protests, the female animal was locked out of her shelter for long periods of the day, experiencing extremes of heat and cold, ultimately catching pneumonia and dying shortly thereafter.
And this, for me is the tragedy of Beaumaris Zoo, having started life with animals lovingly cared for by Mary Roberts and then by Arthur Reid and his daughter, Alison, it became best known as the place where the Tasmanian Tiger (Thyacine) became extinct, due to male prejudice and inept officials.
The zoo finally closed for financial reasons within 12 months of this event. It was a time of the Great Depression and economic failures. I guess a day out at the zoo was simply not a priority for families in those times.
I found the story to be a little confusing but, somehow, ignoring Alison's protests, the female animal was locked out of her shelter for long periods of the day, experiencing extremes of heat and cold, ultimately catching pneumonia and dying shortly thereafter.
And this, for me is the tragedy of Beaumaris Zoo, having started life with animals lovingly cared for by Mary Roberts and then by Arthur Reid and his daughter, Alison, it became best known as the place where the Tasmanian Tiger (Thyacine) became extinct, due to male prejudice and inept officials.
The zoo finally closed for financial reasons within 12 months of this event. It was a time of the Great Depression and economic failures. I guess a day out at the zoo was simply not a priority for families in those times.
One legacy of the zoo, although not perhaps a welcome one, is that in 1996, an annual National Threatened Species Day was set on the 7th September, the same day of the year on which we said goodbye to the Tasmanian Tiger.
Further, in 2000, on that same date, the current iconic gate which leads to the last site of the zoo (only some damaged buildings remain) was installed and is intended to commemorate the history of the zoo.
Further, in 2000, on that same date, the current iconic gate which leads to the last site of the zoo (only some damaged buildings remain) was installed and is intended to commemorate the history of the zoo.
The gate makes a very good photograph.
As it is a little tricky to find (about a 40min walk from the city), here is a map to assist
As it is a little tricky to find (about a 40min walk from the city), here is a map to assist
I believe that a few times a year you can go inside and walk past what is left of the zoo buildings but this did not co-incide with the timing of my visit.
This story would be incomplete if I did not mention that there have been alleged sightings of the "extinct" Thyacine in Southern Australia as late as 2018/9. There are even some grainy videos on the internet. None of the sightings can be said to 100% authenticated but there are quite a large number of Australians fully convinced that the species survives
Hobart : Closing Remarks Hobart is a city full of stories, only a few of which are covered in this blog page. Others include the oldest synagogue in Australasia and a set of buildings where the biggest jam factory outside of England was located. And Finally... I end with a picture of the oldest pub in Australia, or so it is claimed.................. |
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