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PORTMEIRION : A DREAM, A "GANG" AND A PRISONER
Introduction
Although the history of Portmeirion is interesting, for many visitors, it is still mainly a visually attraction. So, I respectfully suggest you first look through the slideshow to get a feeling about this remarkable "village". I am sure, that, if you haven't already visited, you will want to place it on your "to do" list. Then, if you want to know more about the origins and some connected stories, read on... To view Slideshow, place cursor over the first image and then either select 'play' or use arrows/numbers to move through the images |
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Clough Williams-Ellis
The concept and construction of Portmeirion is all down to one man who had a dream and a belief, powerful enough to conduct a 50 year project and leave a unique legacy.
Clough Williams-Ellis was, by profession, an architect and was successful despite having only attended 3 months of training for the work!.
Although born in England, he had very strong family connections with Wales and even claimed to be descended from, arguably, the most famous King or Prince of North Wales, Owain Gwynedd, who ruled the area around 1000 years ago.
In 1920, he wrote a book called "England and the Octopus" which, in his own words, was an "angry" book.
(this book is hard to obtain today but, as usual, the excellent British Library was able to provide me with a copy)
In it, Clough complains of the lack of respect for historical buildings and thoughtless urban encroachment on the countryside
He was clearly sincere about his concerns and many of his complaints are similar to what we hear today ... buildings not designed to last, poorly proportioned buildings, construction projects destroying the countryside and, of course, insufficient support to preserve buildings of architectural merit.
However, it's fair to say, Clough was somewhat aggressive and far-reaching, beyond buildings, in his attacks.
He was particularly concerned about roadside advertisements and diversions which he though would distract travellers as well as spoiling countryside views.
For example, he targeted the Raleigh Cycle Company for their bright yellow posters and the Automobile Association (AA) for their, apparently, intrusive telephone boxes
Further, he was dismayed by garage petrol pumps which were said to often be in excessively bright colours!
He was particularly concerned about roadside advertisements and diversions which he though would distract travellers as well as spoiling countryside views.
For example, he targeted the Raleigh Cycle Company for their bright yellow posters and the Automobile Association (AA) for their, apparently, intrusive telephone boxes
Further, he was dismayed by garage petrol pumps which were said to often be in excessively bright colours!
On a more serious note, Clough reserved most of his anger for the concept known as "ribbon housing", the policy of building new communities alongside existing lines of communication, such as a road, railway or waterway. He saw this as the cities spreading out into the countryside like the tentacles of an octopus, hence the title of his book.
In a way, he was ahead of his time. Although this type of development was once popular, particularly in the 1920's and 1930's, when new housing was desperately needed, it lost favour in later years
The concensus became that "stretching" development in such a linear way created an inefficient "shape" to the communities making them low cost to build but expensive to service. It also led to congestion as local traffic. was all being "funneled" into a central highway of some sort or another.
The creation of "green belt" areas, starting in the 1940's placed a "buffer" between the cities and the countryside.
This, together with earlier planning legislation, more or less, ended ribbon development.
Returning to the man, although his life was obviously dominated by Portmeirion, he was responsible for many other architectural projects and was a always a very active member of organisations and committees concerned with conservation.
When he was knighted by the Queen in 1972, he was the oldest person to be so honoured.(90 years old)
He died in 1978 at the age of 96 years.
In a way, he was ahead of his time. Although this type of development was once popular, particularly in the 1920's and 1930's, when new housing was desperately needed, it lost favour in later years
The concensus became that "stretching" development in such a linear way created an inefficient "shape" to the communities making them low cost to build but expensive to service. It also led to congestion as local traffic. was all being "funneled" into a central highway of some sort or another.
The creation of "green belt" areas, starting in the 1940's placed a "buffer" between the cities and the countryside.
This, together with earlier planning legislation, more or less, ended ribbon development.
Returning to the man, although his life was obviously dominated by Portmeirion, he was responsible for many other architectural projects and was a always a very active member of organisations and committees concerned with conservation.
When he was knighted by the Queen in 1972, he was the oldest person to be so honoured.(90 years old)
He died in 1978 at the age of 96 years.
The Portmeirion "Project
In a book he wrote about Portmeirion, Clough claimed that he had the basic idea of the project at the age of 5 or 6. I leave it to the reader to determine if this is likely !
But he certainly did have the idea in his mind, for some time, to assemble or construct a series of buildings to his own design that would be pleasant to view
And that this would be done in a way that was eventually financially viable.
After looking all over the place, especially North Wales, he ended up by buying coastal land and a castle which was already somehow in the hands of his extended family.
Now the village project could begin.
The exact timeline as recorded in several publications seems not quite consistient so I will take the easy route and say that between 1925 and 1931, Clough conceived the broad principles, publicised what he wanted to do and erected the first buildings.
Portmeirion as we see and enjoy today seems to have been created by an amazing combination of random buildings (many changed from their original form) and an overall colourful Mediterranean style appearance. Many have compared it to an Italian seaside town and claimed that was the "model" for the village although Clough himself seems to want to play down this part of the story.
In any case, I think anyone visiting will not care too much as to the validity or otherwise of the Italian connection.
What they really enjoy is the crazy disjointed appearance of the structures. And the overwhelming colours
It is impossible to improve on Clough's own definition that Portmeirion was a “Home for fallen buildings”.
This simple phrase, for me, sums up the whole concept. He loved rescuing, and often re-working” buildings or other items which, for some reason or another were likely to disappear without his intervention.
Overall, his collection over 50 years was attained mainly by buying whole or partial structures that simply appealed to him and needed protection. Sometimes, there was real history ( The Campanile contains stones from a 12th century castle belonging to his ancestor Gruffyd ap Cynan, a King of Wales ( Remember ...Clough claimed to be descended from Welsh Royalty) but mainly what he bought was unwanted by others who, unlike Clough couldn't see the potential. In one novel, a character remarks that a building needs "Cloughing Up" a reference that Clough , himself seemed to like and presumably meant making buildings less boring than most!
Not that he was casual about what he bought. He would always either know how he was going to integrate it into the village or he recognised a long term benefit of holding available items "in stock"
Not that he was casual about what he bought. He would always either know how he was going to integrate it into the village or he recognised a long term benefit of holding available items "in stock"
It had been my intention, at this point, to write more about the individual buildings, where they came from and what they represented.
However, I realised that this would be a mistake, a kind of "spoiler".
For me, the pleasure is to wander around the whole site enjoying the buildings and their peculiarities wondering what was in the mind of Clough when he assembled them.
Then when you have speculated and wondered enough, just buy or borrow this book.
In literary terms, it is truly one of the difficult books I have ever researched being disjointed and a little clumsily constructed but it is a wonderful description of Clough's thinking, motives and commitment to his project. Reading the book was like listening to the life stories of a slightly forgetful uncle. Some of the detail may seem out if sequence but this is not important compared with learning first hand about the past.
Before leaving the story of the village, it should be mentioned that, as well as "tourists", Portmeierion attracted an extraordinary number of writers who somehow found the place peaceful and inspiring for their literary endeavours. These "guests" included Daphne Du Maurier, John Osborne, John Steinbeck and Sir Compton-Mackenzie. The high;y successful comedy "Blithe Spirit" was entirely written while it's famous author Noel Coward was staying there.
The Ferguson Gang
One of the pleasures of researching a story for a blog is the fact that you can be pursuing the main theme and then be taken off in a completely unexpected direction.
I had been looking at the efforts of of Clough Williams-Ellis to publicise his concerns regarding the urbanisation of the countryside.
In doing so, I came across the tale of a remarkable group of ladies, known as "Ferguson's Gang", who had been highly motivated by his writing.
It is a fascinating story and, surprisingly, I believe, known to few.
In 1927, a small number of women from differing social and political backgrounds were brought together by a lady named Peggy Gladstone to "fight the onslaught of unchecked urban development"
Peggy was a highly intellectual person described as "unconventional with a surreal sense of humour", characteristics which were destined to define the essence of Ferguson's Gang.
This fight was to take the form of raising funds for the National Trust to support the purchase and preservation of historic buildings and, in one case, a picturesque piece of countryside.
What made this group different from many other social activists was the fact that they were obsessed with protecting and hiding their own identity, using masks and false (rather silly) names.
For example, Peggy was "Bill Stickers" and she arranged for this only to be confirmed after her death in 1996.
They also employed a disguised style of writing, called "mockney" based on the "cockney" ( East London) spoken dialect.
Further, they were also known for their, often imaginative, means of delivering the collected funds.
This included enclosing money in a cigar, inside a goose and, in one famous case, delivering their latest collection inside a metal "pineapple" at the National Trust AGM causing, for a brief period, a serious bomb "scare"
Ferguson's gang deserves to be remembered for many things including their complete devotion to the cause, the money raised and the publicising, not of themselves but of the desire and need to protect all that is best in the countryside, whilst still allowing necessary urban development
For me, on a personal level, I admire this group for two other reasons which, dare I say, social movements in the 21st century often seem to lack.
Firstly, there was the tremendous sense of "fun" and "balance" in their approach. Today, organisations wanting donations or support seem to base their appeal on a kind of "making you feel guilty" strategy.
One of the pleasures of researching a story for a blog is the fact that you can be pursuing the main theme and then be taken off in a completely unexpected direction.
I had been looking at the efforts of of Clough Williams-Ellis to publicise his concerns regarding the urbanisation of the countryside.
In doing so, I came across the tale of a remarkable group of ladies, known as "Ferguson's Gang", who had been highly motivated by his writing.
It is a fascinating story and, surprisingly, I believe, known to few.
In 1927, a small number of women from differing social and political backgrounds were brought together by a lady named Peggy Gladstone to "fight the onslaught of unchecked urban development"
Peggy was a highly intellectual person described as "unconventional with a surreal sense of humour", characteristics which were destined to define the essence of Ferguson's Gang.
This fight was to take the form of raising funds for the National Trust to support the purchase and preservation of historic buildings and, in one case, a picturesque piece of countryside.
What made this group different from many other social activists was the fact that they were obsessed with protecting and hiding their own identity, using masks and false (rather silly) names.
For example, Peggy was "Bill Stickers" and she arranged for this only to be confirmed after her death in 1996.
They also employed a disguised style of writing, called "mockney" based on the "cockney" ( East London) spoken dialect.
Further, they were also known for their, often imaginative, means of delivering the collected funds.
This included enclosing money in a cigar, inside a goose and, in one famous case, delivering their latest collection inside a metal "pineapple" at the National Trust AGM causing, for a brief period, a serious bomb "scare"
Ferguson's gang deserves to be remembered for many things including their complete devotion to the cause, the money raised and the publicising, not of themselves but of the desire and need to protect all that is best in the countryside, whilst still allowing necessary urban development
For me, on a personal level, I admire this group for two other reasons which, dare I say, social movements in the 21st century often seem to lack.
Firstly, there was the tremendous sense of "fun" and "balance" in their approach. Today, organisations wanting donations or support seem to base their appeal on a kind of "making you feel guilty" strategy.
A good example of the gang's "fun" attitude is their constitution (which seems to have been revised, from time to time).
One version is shown here... (Image Licenced from ALAMY)
I particularly like that the maximum number of gang members was to be based on how many people could sit upon the side of the mill's grinding drum with their feet dangling inside
One version is shown here... (Image Licenced from ALAMY)
I particularly like that the maximum number of gang members was to be based on how many people could sit upon the side of the mill's grinding drum with their feet dangling inside
Secondly, they approached preservation projects with professionalism.
In this they were smart enough to work with a specialist and skilled conservation architect, John Eric Miers Macgregor OBE, to whom they "awarded" the pseudonym "The Artichoke".
Given that John's father was an artist and his mother a politically-active suffragist, it is hardly surprising that he found his "home" in conservation work and joined with this somewhat "unconventional" gang and their objectives.
(For completeness, I should be clear that he had a considerable and successful career outside of his activities as "The Artichoke". see the Wiki entry..)
So, the gang didn't just go around saying " That's old, we have to keep it".
They studied the current situation, the options available and the costs.
I get the impression from literature that Ferguson's Gang always "picked their battles" and, consequently were generally very effective.
Before bringing this brief introduction to the gang to a close, I must refer to Shalford Mill.
The purchase and renovation of Shalford Mill was the first project undertaken by Ferguson's Gang.
The existing building dates back to 1750 but it was believed that there had been a mill on the site since at least 1086.
This timber-framed building was due to be demolished having been out of use for some time but the gang persuaded the owners to donate the building to the National Trust. They promised that they could raise the money for repair and maintenance.
After the renovation was completed, the afore-mentioned "Artichoke" actually leased the mill as a weekend retreat and his family still occupy the residential portion of the building (see later)
In this they were smart enough to work with a specialist and skilled conservation architect, John Eric Miers Macgregor OBE, to whom they "awarded" the pseudonym "The Artichoke".
Given that John's father was an artist and his mother a politically-active suffragist, it is hardly surprising that he found his "home" in conservation work and joined with this somewhat "unconventional" gang and their objectives.
(For completeness, I should be clear that he had a considerable and successful career outside of his activities as "The Artichoke". see the Wiki entry..)
So, the gang didn't just go around saying " That's old, we have to keep it".
They studied the current situation, the options available and the costs.
I get the impression from literature that Ferguson's Gang always "picked their battles" and, consequently were generally very effective.
Before bringing this brief introduction to the gang to a close, I must refer to Shalford Mill.
The purchase and renovation of Shalford Mill was the first project undertaken by Ferguson's Gang.
The existing building dates back to 1750 but it was believed that there had been a mill on the site since at least 1086.
This timber-framed building was due to be demolished having been out of use for some time but the gang persuaded the owners to donate the building to the National Trust. They promised that they could raise the money for repair and maintenance.
After the renovation was completed, the afore-mentioned "Artichoke" actually leased the mill as a weekend retreat and his family still occupy the residential portion of the building (see later)
I was lucky enough to actually visit Shalford MIll very recently.
What a fantastic day that was....
Not only did I get an entertaining tour of the mill and learn about how it functioned but I also had the great privilege and honour to meet the daughter (Joanna) and granddaughters (Polly and Anna) of Mr Macgregor "The Artichoke".
On a Sunday, when they probably had much better things to do, they welcomed me to their garden and kindly answered some probably rather simplistic questions about the Ferguson Gang. Any mistakes in these article are purely mine as I was too enthralled to make written notes!
It should also be mentioned that from 1932 to sometime in the 60's, the mill served as the meeting place for Ferguson's gang. You can still see their room in the mill, today.
From their beginnings in 1927 to their last donation in 1947, the gang is said (according to Wikipedia) to have raised a total of approximately GBP 500,000 (USD 640,000) in today's currency.
But money was only part of the story.
It is extremely doubtful that, without Ferguson's Gang and the publicity they created, The National Trust could have grown into the substantial organisation it is today.
Further, the gang played a role in supporting a host of legislative initiatives to improve and control urban development in the countryside.
From their beginnings in 1927 to their last donation in 1947, the gang is said (according to Wikipedia) to have raised a total of approximately GBP 500,000 (USD 640,000) in today's currency.
But money was only part of the story.
It is extremely doubtful that, without Ferguson's Gang and the publicity they created, The National Trust could have grown into the substantial organisation it is today.
Further, the gang played a role in supporting a host of legislative initiatives to improve and control urban development in the countryside.
It is my strong recommendation (No, I am not on commission !!!) that, if you want to know more about Ferguson's Gang you should obtain and read "Ferguson's Gang" by Polly Bagnall and Sally Beck
What I like is that the book, not only covers the story of the gang's activities but also detail on the important individual characters, their personalities and motivations.
Here is a link to Amazon for hard or ebook version.
What I like is that the book, not only covers the story of the gang's activities but also detail on the important individual characters, their personalities and motivations.
Here is a link to Amazon for hard or ebook version.
The Prisoner
For those of my generation, Portmeirion is unavoidably associated with the excellent cult classic drama "The Prisoner" (Note..we talk of the original and not the later USA remake)
In fact, to be honest, I had never heard of Portmeirion before that production.
Very briefly, it concerned the efforts of an unnamed authority to determine why an (also unnamed) agent resigned from his duties.
For it's time, it had some very imaginative story-lines, supported by a deliberately unclear plot background and a strong cast.
For those who remember this programme, you may recall it was also famous for the very long opening titles sequence ( ...and the marvellous Lotus Seven car). So, for reasons of nostalgia, I enclose that sequence below:
For those of my generation, Portmeirion is unavoidably associated with the excellent cult classic drama "The Prisoner" (Note..we talk of the original and not the later USA remake)
In fact, to be honest, I had never heard of Portmeirion before that production.
Very briefly, it concerned the efforts of an unnamed authority to determine why an (also unnamed) agent resigned from his duties.
For it's time, it had some very imaginative story-lines, supported by a deliberately unclear plot background and a strong cast.
For those who remember this programme, you may recall it was also famous for the very long opening titles sequence ( ...and the marvellous Lotus Seven car). So, for reasons of nostalgia, I enclose that sequence below:
The series was one of the first made in colour in the UK. It was so made because it was felt that this would be necessary to sell the series in the USA , which had been a good market for an earlier spy-type drama series called "Secret Agent" (or "Danger Man" in the UK).
The connection between the two series went deeper in that the lead character in both was played by Patrick McGoohan, who is also credited with devising and developing the concept of "The Prisoner".
I can remember that, when the series was running and everyone was trying to understand and decypher the complex plot, there was speculation that the prisoner was supposed to be John Drake, the title character from "Danger Man"
Finally, a last piece of trivia.... at one time, some of the production team on "The Prisoner" claimed that the fictitious village was based on a real location in Scotland where spies were indeed held for long periods in luxury surroundings, for some reason or another.
The connection between the two series went deeper in that the lead character in both was played by Patrick McGoohan, who is also credited with devising and developing the concept of "The Prisoner".
I can remember that, when the series was running and everyone was trying to understand and decypher the complex plot, there was speculation that the prisoner was supposed to be John Drake, the title character from "Danger Man"
Finally, a last piece of trivia.... at one time, some of the production team on "The Prisoner" claimed that the fictitious village was based on a real location in Scotland where spies were indeed held for long periods in luxury surroundings, for some reason or another.
Concluding Remarks
I suppose to conclude, I guess I can only repeat the same point from the beginning .. that irrespective of any of the background, Portmeirion is a "don't miss" location and..take you camera !.... no excuses...here is a google map link to help...
I suppose to conclude, I guess I can only repeat the same point from the beginning .. that irrespective of any of the background, Portmeirion is a "don't miss" location and..take you camera !.... no excuses...here is a google map link to help...
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