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EDINBURGH STORIES |
INTRODUCTION The magnificent city of Edinburgh sits on two extinct (hopefully !) volcanoes and has been the capital of Scotland since 1437 The population of approximately 500,000 inhabits the most "green" city in the UK with the highest number of trees/capita. Another reason why we can consider Edinburgh to be an environmentally aware location is the fact that an astonishing 75% of it's buildings are "listed", meaning they are protected in their current form Edinburgh also hosts an annual arts festival (called the Fringe) which is the largest of it's kind in the World. In recent years it has attracted a lot of attention as the place where J. K. Rowling wrote the incredibly popular Harry Potter stories. In this blog, I introduce you to 4 tales from Edinburgh. |
EDINBURGH : SANCTUARY STONES
If you were to walk down Edinburgh’s famous "Royal Mile", and stand in the road, facing the entrance to Holyrood Palace, you may notice a number of stones displaying the letter “S” .
These are Sanctuary Stones marking the limit to which so called “legal sanctuary" applied under the protection of the now derelict Holyrood Abbey, built in 1128.
We are talking of the practice, whereby those trying to avoid arrest could apply for the protection of a church.
This was because, from the 4th to the 17th century, the law stated that you could not be arrested in a sacred place such as a church.
In that time period, anyone could apply for sanctuary at most churches. This was an important option for people evading the law.
Remember, in those days, you could be hanged for stealing a loaf of bread,
Under this arrangement, successful applicants were not only protected from arrest inside the sanctuary boundary but could also freely walk around the town on Sundays without fear of being taken by the police..
Theoretically, even murderers could apply for sanctuary but historians state that the most usual `’crime`’ was to be in debt. This was serious because debt-collectors were notoriously violent and you could be placed in jail until the debt was paid..
Whilst the exact terms might have varied from church to church,applicants would generally have to pay something for their board and lodging, embrace Christianity and possibly perform other duties.
So, to get back to the actual stones.
As previously mentioned, they mark the boundary of the area covered by the sanctuary protection of a nearby church.
In this particular case, the protection would apply within 5 miles of the original Holyrood Abbey, For other smaller churches, I assume a reduced area would be allowed as sanctuary.
It looks like the Abbey had a specific building for those under protection and this splendid structure (see image below) is still existing although it is now a bookshop.
In 1869, the law was changed so that you could not be sent to jail for debt problems.
This largely brought an end to the widespread practice of legal sanctuary.
At this point, a good question would be .. “Does the practice of sanctuary protection still exist ? “
And, as with most good questions, the answer is “ Well, maybe, it depends”
There is no question that, in the UK, running into the nearest church does not give you any protection from arrest if the authorities have the usual paperwork to enter the property and arrest you.
At the same time, it seems to be that authorities tend to respect the principle of sanctuary.
So, it is quite unlikely you will see a fully-armed swat team running through your place of worship throwing flash bombs between the pews.
Finally, we have a more recent use of the term where locations in the UK declare themselves as “Cities of Sanctuary”, meaning they welcome and support immigrants into their community
If you were to walk down Edinburgh’s famous "Royal Mile", and stand in the road, facing the entrance to Holyrood Palace, you may notice a number of stones displaying the letter “S” .
These are Sanctuary Stones marking the limit to which so called “legal sanctuary" applied under the protection of the now derelict Holyrood Abbey, built in 1128.
We are talking of the practice, whereby those trying to avoid arrest could apply for the protection of a church.
This was because, from the 4th to the 17th century, the law stated that you could not be arrested in a sacred place such as a church.
In that time period, anyone could apply for sanctuary at most churches. This was an important option for people evading the law.
Remember, in those days, you could be hanged for stealing a loaf of bread,
Under this arrangement, successful applicants were not only protected from arrest inside the sanctuary boundary but could also freely walk around the town on Sundays without fear of being taken by the police..
Theoretically, even murderers could apply for sanctuary but historians state that the most usual `’crime`’ was to be in debt. This was serious because debt-collectors were notoriously violent and you could be placed in jail until the debt was paid..
Whilst the exact terms might have varied from church to church,applicants would generally have to pay something for their board and lodging, embrace Christianity and possibly perform other duties.
So, to get back to the actual stones.
As previously mentioned, they mark the boundary of the area covered by the sanctuary protection of a nearby church.
In this particular case, the protection would apply within 5 miles of the original Holyrood Abbey, For other smaller churches, I assume a reduced area would be allowed as sanctuary.
It looks like the Abbey had a specific building for those under protection and this splendid structure (see image below) is still existing although it is now a bookshop.
In 1869, the law was changed so that you could not be sent to jail for debt problems.
This largely brought an end to the widespread practice of legal sanctuary.
At this point, a good question would be .. “Does the practice of sanctuary protection still exist ? “
And, as with most good questions, the answer is “ Well, maybe, it depends”
There is no question that, in the UK, running into the nearest church does not give you any protection from arrest if the authorities have the usual paperwork to enter the property and arrest you.
At the same time, it seems to be that authorities tend to respect the principle of sanctuary.
So, it is quite unlikely you will see a fully-armed swat team running through your place of worship throwing flash bombs between the pews.
Finally, we have a more recent use of the term where locations in the UK declare themselves as “Cities of Sanctuary”, meaning they welcome and support immigrants into their community
WILD WEST BUILDINGS
This is something of a hidden treasure as the tour guide books tend to say.
In the mid-90’s, In the Morningside district of Edinburgh, a company called “South West Furniture”, modified their outer buildings to look like an old Wild West main street.
I understand this was done partly for advertising reasons and partly to cover the exterior of an abandoned cinema.
I have a feeling that there is much more to this story but that’s all I have got for now on the origin
The company went out of business and there has been a deterioration of the paintwork. Strangely, if anything, this has made the place look more realistic.
I read that the whole thing was designed by a man called Michael Faulkner who, somehow, enlisted the help of EuroDisney employees, especially with the sign writing.
Initially, I had difficulty finding information on Michael Faulkner but, eventually, an interesting connection with Irish history was revealed.
His father, Bryan Faulkner was the Prime Minister of Northern Ireland who, during the Irish troubles, introduced the highly controversial internment process in August 1971, effectively detaining suspected terrorists without trial.
For those interested, more on this can be found here.
Seems a considerable way from this harmless delightful piece of the Wild West.
This is something of a hidden treasure as the tour guide books tend to say.
In the mid-90’s, In the Morningside district of Edinburgh, a company called “South West Furniture”, modified their outer buildings to look like an old Wild West main street.
I understand this was done partly for advertising reasons and partly to cover the exterior of an abandoned cinema.
I have a feeling that there is much more to this story but that’s all I have got for now on the origin
The company went out of business and there has been a deterioration of the paintwork. Strangely, if anything, this has made the place look more realistic.
I read that the whole thing was designed by a man called Michael Faulkner who, somehow, enlisted the help of EuroDisney employees, especially with the sign writing.
Initially, I had difficulty finding information on Michael Faulkner but, eventually, an interesting connection with Irish history was revealed.
His father, Bryan Faulkner was the Prime Minister of Northern Ireland who, during the Irish troubles, introduced the highly controversial internment process in August 1971, effectively detaining suspected terrorists without trial.
For those interested, more on this can be found here.
Seems a considerable way from this harmless delightful piece of the Wild West.
GREYFRIARS BOBBY
Normally, I look for stories that are not the most well-known in any location.
However, the first thing I ever knew about Edinburgh was the famous story of Greyfriars Bobby.
So here we go :
Bobby was a skye terrier, born 4th May 1855
Some sources suggest that Bobby legally belonged to a policeman called John Gray. Others suggest Bobby was a kind of stray “adopted” by John
The fact that Bobby’s birth date was known would seem to indicate that the first suggestion is the right one.
It is known that, as he was a policeman patrolling the town, John Gray was supposed to have a dog companion.
So, one way or another, he acquired Bobby as his "partner"
The important part of this story actually commenced with John Gray’s death when Bobby was about 3 years old.
John was buried in Greyfriars Graveyard and for the next 11 years, Bobby was, every day, to be seen next to his master’s grave until 1872 when Bobby, himself, died
The story of Bobby’s devotion soon spread through the town and he became something of a celebrity .
As, technically, Bobby no longer had an owner, The Lord Provost ( Mayor) of Edinburgh paid for Bobby’s licence himself so the dog would be protected from dog-catchers.
When Bobby died he was buried as close as possible to his master
Some regulations prevented him from being buried right next to John but he does have a nice memorial garden in a prominent position near to the graveyard entrance.
The most famous site associated with Bobby is a fountain and statue just opposite the pub which is named after him.
This memorial, completed in 1872, was funded by a well-known philanthropist , Lady Burdett- Coutts.
I looked her up and she was a remarkably generous giver of time and money to a diverse group of people.
For example, she was President of the British Beekeepers Association, a supporter of aboriginal rights in Australia and the provider of new church bells for St Paul’s Cathedral. In all, she was closely associated with more than 20 good causes.
Ironically, she, herself, lost most of her wealth when she married an American. This choice apparently broke one of the clauses in her inheritance. The money went to a sister, who did not marry an American!
Staying with the issue of the fountain and statue, we must cover the story of Bobby’s nose which somehow has been lightened over the years. This is because some unnamed person or persons started a rumour that rubbing the statue’s nose would bring good luck.
Around 10 years ago, the local authorities re-coated the nose and also asked visitors only to tap the nose lightly rather than rub energetically.
It was noticed that the repair did not work and the nose, suspiciously quickly, lost the new covering which had been applied. Shortly afterwards, local police declared that this loss was not accidental but had been brought about by someone rubbing an abrasive material across the repair.
Regarding the whole story of Greyfriars Bobby and for completeness, I have to say that some “spoilsports” have raised doubts about the details of this heart-warming tale.
Apart from some debate on Bobby’s exact breed, some doubts about Bobby’s motives for staying in the graveyard have been questioned with suggestions that he may have just been inhabiting the area where people provided food.
However, there were witnesses to Bobby’s behavour and attitude which fit very well with the original story.
So, I guess we can take most of it as reliable.
Normally, I look for stories that are not the most well-known in any location.
However, the first thing I ever knew about Edinburgh was the famous story of Greyfriars Bobby.
So here we go :
Bobby was a skye terrier, born 4th May 1855
Some sources suggest that Bobby legally belonged to a policeman called John Gray. Others suggest Bobby was a kind of stray “adopted” by John
The fact that Bobby’s birth date was known would seem to indicate that the first suggestion is the right one.
It is known that, as he was a policeman patrolling the town, John Gray was supposed to have a dog companion.
So, one way or another, he acquired Bobby as his "partner"
The important part of this story actually commenced with John Gray’s death when Bobby was about 3 years old.
John was buried in Greyfriars Graveyard and for the next 11 years, Bobby was, every day, to be seen next to his master’s grave until 1872 when Bobby, himself, died
The story of Bobby’s devotion soon spread through the town and he became something of a celebrity .
As, technically, Bobby no longer had an owner, The Lord Provost ( Mayor) of Edinburgh paid for Bobby’s licence himself so the dog would be protected from dog-catchers.
When Bobby died he was buried as close as possible to his master
Some regulations prevented him from being buried right next to John but he does have a nice memorial garden in a prominent position near to the graveyard entrance.
The most famous site associated with Bobby is a fountain and statue just opposite the pub which is named after him.
This memorial, completed in 1872, was funded by a well-known philanthropist , Lady Burdett- Coutts.
I looked her up and she was a remarkably generous giver of time and money to a diverse group of people.
For example, she was President of the British Beekeepers Association, a supporter of aboriginal rights in Australia and the provider of new church bells for St Paul’s Cathedral. In all, she was closely associated with more than 20 good causes.
Ironically, she, herself, lost most of her wealth when she married an American. This choice apparently broke one of the clauses in her inheritance. The money went to a sister, who did not marry an American!
Staying with the issue of the fountain and statue, we must cover the story of Bobby’s nose which somehow has been lightened over the years. This is because some unnamed person or persons started a rumour that rubbing the statue’s nose would bring good luck.
Around 10 years ago, the local authorities re-coated the nose and also asked visitors only to tap the nose lightly rather than rub energetically.
It was noticed that the repair did not work and the nose, suspiciously quickly, lost the new covering which had been applied. Shortly afterwards, local police declared that this loss was not accidental but had been brought about by someone rubbing an abrasive material across the repair.
Regarding the whole story of Greyfriars Bobby and for completeness, I have to say that some “spoilsports” have raised doubts about the details of this heart-warming tale.
Apart from some debate on Bobby’s exact breed, some doubts about Bobby’s motives for staying in the graveyard have been questioned with suggestions that he may have just been inhabiting the area where people provided food.
However, there were witnesses to Bobby’s behavour and attitude which fit very well with the original story.
So, I guess we can take most of it as reliable.
THE MYSTERY OF THE MINATURE COFFINS
I already mentioned that Edinburgh has, at least, two dormant volcanoes.
One of them is called "Arthur's Seat" and forms the highest point in the city.
Our story begins there.
In June 1836, a group of children were wandering in the hills above Edinburgh, looking for rabbits.
More specifically, they were on Arthur's Seat and, at some point, were exploring caves within the hills when they made a significant discovery.
What they found was a collection of miniature coffins each containing a carved small body wrapped in cotton clothing. Each coffin was approximately 95mm or nearly 4 ins. in length.
Since the discovery, people have speculated as to the origin of the coffins and I was able to view them myself in the National Museum.
Regarding the history and purpose of the coffins, I will summarise the main "contenders"
One of the early suggestions was that it was connected with witchcraft in some way.
However, this idea was abandoned due to the time frame.
Witchcraft had not been a "thing" in Scotland for a hundred years or more at the time of the discovery
Just for interest, I looked up the date of the last significant witch trial there. It was 1727 when a convicted witch, Janet Horne was burned.
A more realistic theory was that the coffins represented and "celebrated" the life of some unknown people who had died in a faraway land or perhaps whose bodies were not found.
This is a possibility because the Scots did have some funeral rituals that would have been incomplete without a body to bury.
Another explanation seems to have originated in Germany where similar carved figure were said to be carried by sailors for "protection" at sea.
Approximately 20 years ago, the exact age of the coffins was determined as being around 1830 and this gave rise to a very interesting idea which has been supported by some experts.
In 1828, William Burke and William Hare improved the efficiency of grave-robbing. Instead of waiting for someone to die so they could dig them up and sell the body for dissection, they effectively reduced the supply chain by killing the victim in advance !.
You can read more about their story here
So how did they become linked to the coffins?
Although there are only 8 coffins on display in the National Museum, it is believed that, originally, there were 17 found that day in 1836.
So, the story promoted was that the coffins represented all the victims of Burke and Hare.
To my mind, despite it's popularity it is not that convincing as an explanation.
Firstly, there were said to have been 17 coffins but research suggests a figure of 16 for the body count of our two body entrepreneurs .
Further, all the "dolls" seem to be male, based on the clothes whilst, in fact, there were a number of female victims of Burke and Hare
Finally, nobody has found any direct link between the killers and the coffins.
The latest reference i saw was a claim that the coffins were, somehow, a kind of political statement or memorial connected with the so-called Radical War of 1820
This was a major protest against the employment conditions of weavers and other workers.
Many of those workers did end up as labourers on a road-building project near Arthur's Seat and may have left these coffins behnd.
So, after 200 years, this mystery remains exactly that and it will, no doubt continue to attract new theories.
Meanwhile, I should just mention that the National Museum, the home of the coffins, is a splendid place to visit with extremely helpful staff.
In particular, look out for Dolly the cloned sheep.
Also don't miss a rather stretched bike from the very late 19th Century.
In the most popular bike races, the competitors raced for long periods in the slipstream of a "pacing bike"
Of course, this pacing bike had to travel at very high speeds for long periods. Thus multiple riders were needed.
CLOSING COMMENTS
Edinburgh is a city of stories so don't be surprised if I produce a sequel to this blog.
Meanwhile, don't miss the chance to go there. You won't be disappointed.
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