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SYDNEY - RANDOM NOTES ON A GREAT CITY
INTRODUCTION
I am lucky enough to have just enjoyed an excellent holiday in Australia. The first time I have visited. This is the first of 3 planned blog pages covering the 3 main cities in my itinerary. My notes will be just general personal impressions and some occasional odd stories.
So we start with Sydney but first a quick personal note. Not that it's particularly interesting for anyone else but, in fact, I came very close to spending my life in Australia. When I was around 10 years old, my parents planned to move there under the special
10 GBP (USD 13) scheme (see this link)
I can still remember going to Australia House in Manchester to get the paperwork. Anyway, for family reasons, the move never happened and it would be another 60 years before I made my first trip to this country.
Anyway..off we go....
I am lucky enough to have just enjoyed an excellent holiday in Australia. The first time I have visited. This is the first of 3 planned blog pages covering the 3 main cities in my itinerary. My notes will be just general personal impressions and some occasional odd stories.
So we start with Sydney but first a quick personal note. Not that it's particularly interesting for anyone else but, in fact, I came very close to spending my life in Australia. When I was around 10 years old, my parents planned to move there under the special
10 GBP (USD 13) scheme (see this link)
I can still remember going to Australia House in Manchester to get the paperwork. Anyway, for family reasons, the move never happened and it would be another 60 years before I made my first trip to this country.
Anyway..off we go....
CIRCULAR QUAY
Prior to visiting Sydney, I was advised to start by getting down to Circular Quay.
This was excellent advice which I hereby pass on to any others planning a trip to this city.
Circular Quay is probably unique as a place which is not only a very substantial transport hub where ferries, tour companies and trains all converge but is also close to so many other attractions, including the Harbour Bridge, Opera House and The Rocks, which I will cover later.
In fact, no visit to Sydney would be complete without a ferry trip from this location mainly because such rides give view of the area not easily obtained from land bases.
Here I would like to add a comment.... a kind of traveller's tip, if you like ...
There are basically two kinds of ferry available - regular services on a pay-as-you-go basis and specific tours including a hop-on/hop-off deal.
I took the hop-on/hop-off ticket and it was probably not the best choice. The service did provide nice boats from which there were good opportunities to take photos but was very unreliable on the question of timetable. For example, myself and others were left stranded for 1-2 hours at one location after watching our ferry approach the landing stage and then sail off without stopping when it seems there was a queue of 1-2 other ferries waiting to berth. Given my time again, I would have planned my own schedule using the "standard" regular ferry services.
Still this negative experience does not change the fact that you could not start your exploration of Sydney at a better location
SYDNEY HARBOUR BRIDGE
For a number of reasons, this has to be my first location to describe.
Together with the Opera House, it dominates the area and is the feature that almost everybody knows before coming to Sydney.
Further, bridges and similar structures have always interested me. In fact I am a bit if a bridge "bore"!
But, in fact, I go first with this icon for a completely different reason. That is because it has a wonderfully totally ridiculous story attached to the bridge opening in 1932, which I find irresistible, introduced to me though the excellent Billy Connolly's " World Tour of Australia" videos.
To "enjoy" this incident, you have to imagine the scene. After around 10 years of work, this magnificent bridge is to be opened in front of a large number of specially-invited dignitaries, many in quite elaborate uniforms and, undoubtedly, all full of self-importance waiting for the bridge to be opened in the name of King George Vth.
Watched by around 750,000 people (yes, really, 3/4 million), the New South Wales Premier, Jack Lang prepared to cut the ceremonial ribbon.
Before he could do so, a soldier called Francis De Groot, borrowed a horse, dashed towards the ribbon and, with his sword, cut it before anyone else could. What I wouldn't have given to have been there!
For a number of reasons, this has to be my first location to describe.
Together with the Opera House, it dominates the area and is the feature that almost everybody knows before coming to Sydney.
Further, bridges and similar structures have always interested me. In fact I am a bit if a bridge "bore"!
But, in fact, I go first with this icon for a completely different reason. That is because it has a wonderfully totally ridiculous story attached to the bridge opening in 1932, which I find irresistible, introduced to me though the excellent Billy Connolly's " World Tour of Australia" videos.
To "enjoy" this incident, you have to imagine the scene. After around 10 years of work, this magnificent bridge is to be opened in front of a large number of specially-invited dignitaries, many in quite elaborate uniforms and, undoubtedly, all full of self-importance waiting for the bridge to be opened in the name of King George Vth.
Watched by around 750,000 people (yes, really, 3/4 million), the New South Wales Premier, Jack Lang prepared to cut the ceremonial ribbon.
Before he could do so, a soldier called Francis De Groot, borrowed a horse, dashed towards the ribbon and, with his sword, cut it before anyone else could. What I wouldn't have given to have been there!
|
I couldn't find a video showing the exact moment of the ribbon-cutting.. but this one shows the general chaos and some quite interesting other images. It also show Jack Lang making no effort to conceal his great displeasure at being only the second person to open the bridge ! |
.So, who were these two main players in this farce ?
Jack Lang served twice as New South Wales (NSW) Premier and, during his first term, was applauded for a number of social projects improving pensions, working conditions and education opportunities.
He was a charismatic speaker and generally enjoyed popularity with the ordinary people.
He could definitely be controversial and this was evidenced by his insistence to be the one to open the bridge instead of the Governer who, as the King's representative, almost certainly expected to the one to perform this task
However, 1932 proved to be a difficult year for Jack Lang, not only with the bridge incident.
In that same year he experienced major disagreements with the Governor and other leaders in the country, primarily because they rejected his idea for combating the Depression in Australia. When he tried to fight this opposition by withdrawing all state funds from Government bank accounts (he actually then kept the money in cash), his NSW Government was "fired" by the Governor.
His career never fully recovered but he remained active in politics and lived to the good old age of 98..
Jack Lang served twice as New South Wales (NSW) Premier and, during his first term, was applauded for a number of social projects improving pensions, working conditions and education opportunities.
He was a charismatic speaker and generally enjoyed popularity with the ordinary people.
He could definitely be controversial and this was evidenced by his insistence to be the one to open the bridge instead of the Governer who, as the King's representative, almost certainly expected to the one to perform this task
However, 1932 proved to be a difficult year for Jack Lang, not only with the bridge incident.
In that same year he experienced major disagreements with the Governor and other leaders in the country, primarily because they rejected his idea for combating the Depression in Australia. When he tried to fight this opposition by withdrawing all state funds from Government bank accounts (he actually then kept the money in cash), his NSW Government was "fired" by the Governor.
His career never fully recovered but he remained active in politics and lived to the good old age of 98..
As for Francis De Groot, he was an Irish-Australian army officer, very loyal to the Monarchy and holding what, today, we would call right-wing views. He was a member of a paramilitary group called the "New Guard". His actions on the bridge were directed very specifically at Jack Lang, whom he saw as offending the Royal Family by not letting the Governor cut the ribbon and because he didn't like some of Lang's left wing views.
After his arrest, it was expected that he would be charged with being insane rather than any specific crimes but experts pronounced him sane and he was charged with the following ;
1. Maliciously damaging a ribbon belonging to the Government and valued at two pounds
2. Behaving in an offensive manner
3. Using threatening language to an Inspector
He was only found guilty of the second charge and fined five pounds, accordingly.
Later he sued for wrongful arrest and there was an out-of-court settlement whereby, most significantly, he received back his confiscated ceremonial sword.
He eventually settled back into his life in his high-end furniture business, later returning to Dublin where he died in 1969
Before his death, he stated that he wanted his sword to be returned to Australia, after which the National Museum of Australia tried to buy it. However, they were outbid and it is now believed to be in the possession of the company, BridgeClimb, Sydney
Which leads us neatly into my other main point on the bridge.
You may know that it is possible to climb to the very top of the Harbour Bridge for spectacular views of the area.
However, it is very expensive (AUD 300), a bit demanding and, most significantly for me, you are not allowed to bring a camera which seems to rather negate the whole exercise.
So, instead, my recommendation would be to take the 200 steps up the inside of one of the bridge pylons (call Pylon's Lookout). There is a modest entrance fee but you get up very high and can take great pictures.
After his arrest, it was expected that he would be charged with being insane rather than any specific crimes but experts pronounced him sane and he was charged with the following ;
1. Maliciously damaging a ribbon belonging to the Government and valued at two pounds
2. Behaving in an offensive manner
3. Using threatening language to an Inspector
He was only found guilty of the second charge and fined five pounds, accordingly.
Later he sued for wrongful arrest and there was an out-of-court settlement whereby, most significantly, he received back his confiscated ceremonial sword.
He eventually settled back into his life in his high-end furniture business, later returning to Dublin where he died in 1969
Before his death, he stated that he wanted his sword to be returned to Australia, after which the National Museum of Australia tried to buy it. However, they were outbid and it is now believed to be in the possession of the company, BridgeClimb, Sydney
Which leads us neatly into my other main point on the bridge.
You may know that it is possible to climb to the very top of the Harbour Bridge for spectacular views of the area.
However, it is very expensive (AUD 300), a bit demanding and, most significantly for me, you are not allowed to bring a camera which seems to rather negate the whole exercise.
So, instead, my recommendation would be to take the 200 steps up the inside of one of the bridge pylons (call Pylon's Lookout). There is a modest entrance fee but you get up very high and can take great pictures.
SYDNEY OPERA HOUSE
If the Harbour Bridge had a chaotic opening, then we can equally say the Opera House had a chaotic construction process.
Problems with materials, construction methods, mind-blowing budget overruns, management structures, unpaid bills and political interference leading, almost inevitably, to delays and even the resignation of the designer, Jorn Utzon. (only for him to be later invited back to "update" the interior in line with his original ideas.)
The basics are that the idea for a major performance location began in the 1940's, was then followed by a 1955 design competition which resulted in Utzon's ambitious and iconic submission.
Construction began in 1959 and the building was opened in 1973.
If the detail interests you or if you need some help to fall asleep at night, you can review the complete story of the project here
For me, I just want to look at the magnificent result of the chaos. Even a completely non-artistic person like me can appreciate that it is a compelling combination of art and mathematics.
Some time ago, someone told me the distinctive roofing was made to look like a sailing ship. However, more recently, I read that the designer himself saw it as a kind of "peeling orange" image.
If the detail interests you or if you need some help to fall asleep at night, you can review the complete story of the project here
For me, I just want to look at the magnificent result of the chaos. Even a completely non-artistic person like me can appreciate that it is a compelling combination of art and mathematics.
Some time ago, someone told me the distinctive roofing was made to look like a sailing ship. However, more recently, I read that the designer himself saw it as a kind of "peeling orange" image.
I actually much prefer the view from the back steps of the building with it's symmetry and emphasis on the "peaks" of the roof.
Finally, I have to say that having a coffee outside the Opera House and looking across the harbour to the bridge is an truly unforgettable experience.
Finally, I have to say that having a coffee outside the Opera House and looking across the harbour to the bridge is an truly unforgettable experience.
THE ROCKS
Almost every city seems, today, to have an "arty" and "historic" quarter, mostly aimed at tourists and their wallets.
The Rocks, however, as well as being a pleasant area has much more of an authentic history than other "old quarters" which I have seen.
It was one of the first places to be occupied by colonists in 1788.
At that time, the area was occupied by 50-80 members of a local indigenous clan called the Cadigal, who, along with other local clans were almost wiped out by smallpox, a "gift" from the European settlers in 1789. It is said that only 3 Cadigal inhabitants survived the outbreak.
Still, there are said to be more than 100 Cadigal descendents still living in Sydney. (those survivors must have worked hard !)
Meanwhile, life in The Rocks moved on but with a poor reputation as a crime-infested slum.
By the second half of the 19th century, the area was best known for gang warfare and organised crime, the most successful gang being known as the Rocks Push.
They had an interesting way of settling local disputes by bare knuckle boxing which I would love to see adopted by political leaders today. (A boxing match between Theresa May and Jeremy Corbyn would be infinitely more fun than the current Brexit debates !)
One famous fight (a Roman Catholic gang against a Protestant gang) lasted 71 rounds and might have gone on even longer if the police had not intervened.
The Catholics certainly had an advantage in that fight as they were represented by Larry Foley who later became a famous Australian Boxing Champion. According to Wikipedia (so it must be true!), the familiar expression "Happy as Larry" to describe an overwhelmingly happy state of being, came from his name.
Meanwhile, life certainly continued to be not much fun in The Rocks
Shortly after the period of gang dominance, in 1900, bubonic plague broke out in Sydney with The Rocks being a area which was badly affected. In fact, Australia experienced several further multiple outbreaks for about 20 years.
The Government, having taken full control of the affected area including The Rocks, proceeded to implement a "cleansing" and redevelopment project aimed at clearing and replacing most of the housing. Only the outbreak of World War 1 prevented all of the older buildings being lost to history although some were "sacrificed" during the building of the Harbour Bridge
The "cleansing" process was again attempted in 1968 but efforts by local people (fearing rent increases) and local unions were successful to delay action until 1975 and to "save" many buildings.
There are now in excess of 100 listed heritage buildings/sites in The Rocks
A must-see is the Cadman's Cottage, the second oldest building in Sydney and with an interesting history.
It was built in 1816 initially as the official home of the governmental coxswain (sometimes termed "Superintendent of Government Boats"), who seems to have had a general responsibility for activities in the harbour and the crews working there. He was also responsible for providing crews for the Governor's Barge and other official boats
The name of the cottage comes from the last person to hold that post, being John Cadman who occupied the site from 1827 - 1845. (some sources indicate he occupied the building earlier but I think these dates are the correct ones)
It was built in 1816 initially as the official home of the governmental coxswain (sometimes termed "Superintendent of Government Boats"), who seems to have had a general responsibility for activities in the harbour and the crews working there. He was also responsible for providing crews for the Governor's Barge and other official boats
The name of the cottage comes from the last person to hold that post, being John Cadman who occupied the site from 1827 - 1845. (some sources indicate he occupied the building earlier but I think these dates are the correct ones)
Surprisingly, given the considerable status of the position, Cadman was, in fact, a convicted horse-stealer, having been transported to Australia in 1798 - how's that for a successful rehabilitation ?
Some reports state that he lost an eye while serving as coxswain although another source says he lost the eye through a childhood accident.
There are some uncertainties and gaps in what happened to the building after John Cadman's retirement but it definitely came under the control of the Water Police Dept. Used both for accommodation and to lock up prisoners, it was eventually regarded as unsuitable and became, it is believed, the residence of the person in charge of a "Sailor's Home".
It is said to have been used for accommodation of management and sailors for the next 100 years.
It survived various plans which could have caused it's demolition and was finally recognised as being of historical interest from around 1970 onwards, being then subjected to some restoration and becoming a key tourist destination in The Rocks.
Some reports state that he lost an eye while serving as coxswain although another source says he lost the eye through a childhood accident.
There are some uncertainties and gaps in what happened to the building after John Cadman's retirement but it definitely came under the control of the Water Police Dept. Used both for accommodation and to lock up prisoners, it was eventually regarded as unsuitable and became, it is believed, the residence of the person in charge of a "Sailor's Home".
It is said to have been used for accommodation of management and sailors for the next 100 years.
It survived various plans which could have caused it's demolition and was finally recognised as being of historical interest from around 1970 onwards, being then subjected to some restoration and becoming a key tourist destination in The Rocks.
One side note.........
If you walk from Circular Quay to The Rocks you pass one of my favourite buildings, now part of The Museum for Contemporary Art.
The main Art Deco structure is the former Maritime Services Building, opened in the 1930's on possibly the most important piece of land in the area - the location of the landing of the so-termed "First Fleet" in 1788
This "Fleet" comprised 12 ships of which 6 were carrying the first convicts being transported to Australia. Prior to this, British prisoners sentenced to transportation had been sent to America, which, now independent, was obviously not available.
If you walk from Circular Quay to The Rocks you pass one of my favourite buildings, now part of The Museum for Contemporary Art.
The main Art Deco structure is the former Maritime Services Building, opened in the 1930's on possibly the most important piece of land in the area - the location of the landing of the so-termed "First Fleet" in 1788
This "Fleet" comprised 12 ships of which 6 were carrying the first convicts being transported to Australia. Prior to this, British prisoners sentenced to transportation had been sent to America, which, now independent, was obviously not available.
Finally, if you visit The Rocks, don't miss an unusual sandstone relief sculpture called "First Impressions".(near "The Rocks Centre")
Commissioned in 1979, created by an American, Bud Dumas, it celebrates the 3 groups of people known as the origins of Sydney.
They are Convicts, Settlers and Soldiers
Commissioned in 1979, created by an American, Bud Dumas, it celebrates the 3 groups of people known as the origins of Sydney.
They are Convicts, Settlers and Soldiers
BRETT WHITELY, ARTIST
I know and understand very little about art but I was encouraged to take an interest in Australian artist Brett Whitely (1939-1992).
He produced highly imaginative art work and was also an accomplished sculptor.
In his comparatively short life, he drew on diverse sources of inspiration including the Anti-Vietnam War Peace Movement in the USA for which he produced the spectacular collage - "The American Dream"
This was an astonishing 22 metres long. It took him a year to complete. Throughout the period of it's construction, Brett was often incapacitated by drugs and alcohol, both of which were said to have contributed to the final format.
Here is a link for some images of this incredible work and here is an "interesting" self-portrait.
My main personal interest was to see his 8 metre high sculpture of two matchsticks which I did.
It is located not far from Art Gallery of NSW
From this sculpture, I went to his former home and gallery, in Raper St, (a pleasant walk from the matchsticks through an older neighbourhood of Sydney)
Most of his work seems, to my completely inexpert eye, to be somewhere between a painting and a cartoon, which is, to me, a very pleasing effect. I noticed that much of his work included animals despite him having said once they are difficult subjects because they tend to move!
When walking around the gallery I soon noticed that all of the music being played was by one person, Bob Dylan, which was fine by me. The guy on the till told me that Brett had been very close friends with Dylan going back to their time together in New York.
It is located not far from Art Gallery of NSW
From this sculpture, I went to his former home and gallery, in Raper St, (a pleasant walk from the matchsticks through an older neighbourhood of Sydney)
Most of his work seems, to my completely inexpert eye, to be somewhere between a painting and a cartoon, which is, to me, a very pleasing effect. I noticed that much of his work included animals despite him having said once they are difficult subjects because they tend to move!
When walking around the gallery I soon noticed that all of the music being played was by one person, Bob Dylan, which was fine by me. The guy on the till told me that Brett had been very close friends with Dylan going back to their time together in New York.
Following a little research and, to my surprise, I found that I had actually already owned a piece of Brett's art since 1984 without realising it.
The cover of the splendid Dire Straits album, "Alchemy", was his work (except, I am told, for the guitar part of the image added later.).
I did buy a couple of prints including my own favourite : "The Lyrebird"
It is very compelling and has a remark in the corner in Chinese and English saying " A pointless painting needs looking at for a long time" .. very profound... I strongly suspect he came up with this wisdom in one of his less sober moments.
As if to prove my lack of credentials as an art critic, the paintings I like best in the gallery all come from the 1970's and are regarded by so-called experts as, and I quote one, " badly painted, cheaply collaged..". I'll let you judge this one..
It is very compelling and has a remark in the corner in Chinese and English saying " A pointless painting needs looking at for a long time" .. very profound... I strongly suspect he came up with this wisdom in one of his less sober moments.
As if to prove my lack of credentials as an art critic, the paintings I like best in the gallery all come from the 1970's and are regarded by so-called experts as, and I quote one, " badly painted, cheaply collaged..". I'll let you judge this one..
WATSON BAY
Like most tourists, I went to Watson Bay by ferry
For me, the main purpose was to try the very famous Doyle's fish restaurant. (Another Billy Connolly recommendation)
This family business has occupied the same beach-side site since 1885
I had the salmon and it lives up to its reputation, although a little pricey.
After this pleasant meal, it was an ideal time to take a coastal walk, which is reached by going inland across the main park area.
This walk beside the picturesque seascape has some interesting features.
We can skip quickly over the unfortunate long history of suicides associated with this part of the peninsular and move on to a different tragedy memorialised on this walk.
On 20th August 1853, the London-based sailing ship, The Dunbar, was driven on to rocks below where the walking path is now designated. This was partly due to the weather and partly due to a navigational error.
59 crew and 63 passengers were on board and the rapid break up of the ship, gale force winds and heavy rain gave them very little chance of survival.
Remarkably, one man, Able Seaman James Johnson, did survive the wreck and, after 1-2 days of clinging to rocks, he was rescued by locals.
Thus, James Johnson was the only survivor of this tragedy and there is an interesting follow-up co-incidence.
James eventually became a lighthouse keeper and, 9 years after his remarkable escape, he was involved in saving the life of another lone survivor of a shipwreck...
The loss of the The Dunbar is marked, on the coastal walk, by an anchor, believed to have come from the wreck
This walk beside the picturesque seascape has some interesting features.
We can skip quickly over the unfortunate long history of suicides associated with this part of the peninsular and move on to a different tragedy memorialised on this walk.
On 20th August 1853, the London-based sailing ship, The Dunbar, was driven on to rocks below where the walking path is now designated. This was partly due to the weather and partly due to a navigational error.
59 crew and 63 passengers were on board and the rapid break up of the ship, gale force winds and heavy rain gave them very little chance of survival.
Remarkably, one man, Able Seaman James Johnson, did survive the wreck and, after 1-2 days of clinging to rocks, he was rescued by locals.
Thus, James Johnson was the only survivor of this tragedy and there is an interesting follow-up co-incidence.
James eventually became a lighthouse keeper and, 9 years after his remarkable escape, he was involved in saving the life of another lone survivor of a shipwreck...
The loss of the The Dunbar is marked, on the coastal walk, by an anchor, believed to have come from the wreck
A little further along this coastal walk, are the remains of the Signal Hill Battery fortifications, built in 1890, to help to protect Sydney from being attacked and shelled from a distance.
There is also the Signal Communications Station where I got some unwelcome looks when I took photographs.
It is said that a fascinating group of tunnels and rooms lie underneath the station and fortifications but, sadly, the entrance to these underground workings has been sealed.
There is also the Signal Communications Station where I got some unwelcome looks when I took photographs.
It is said that a fascinating group of tunnels and rooms lie underneath the station and fortifications but, sadly, the entrance to these underground workings has been sealed.
A short distance further on brings us to the highly photogenic Macquarie Lighthouse, which is rather artistic compared with most lighthouses I have seen.
To me, it has a temple-like appearance
It is the oldest still-operating lighthouse in Australia.
The name " Macquarie" appears frequently in tourist guides (I stopped counting at 23 locations) so this is as good a time as any to say something about this person who has left his name all over New South Wales.
Lachlan MacQuarie, who came from a wealthy Scottish family (They owned the Isle of Mull, for example) and was Governor of New South Wales from 1810 to 1821.
These were very turbulent times for the colony (The previous Governor was the notorious William Bligh who had the the distinction of being the only Governor thrown in jail by his own subjects. This and other stories of Bligh can be found here)
MacQuarie faced numerous problems, some natural, like a drought and many political as NSW was a divided society between those with convict origins and those who were true settlers.
Throughout the difficulties, MacQuarie introduced many reforms and projects. In particular, he was very supportive of the ex-convicts who wanted to be a real and accepted part of the growing Australia.
He was also responsible for the introduction of a working Australian currency and was also the one who made everyone "drive" on the left! (Not sure how this worked with horses !)
More importantly, he designed the street layout of Sydney and, to my surprise, was one of the first colonist leaders to propose giving land back to the aboriginals. (I had assumed that this policy was relatively recent!)
This lighthouse formed the end of my coastal walk in Watsons Bay.. a very much recommended stroll.
I should add that, not far from the lighthouse, I found what looks like just the remains of a felled tree. But, if you look closely, someone seems to have carved faces in the wood.
By the way, I am told that, if you are lucky, you may see whales from this part of the coast.... I did not but good luck to you if you go there.
MANLY COVE
About 18 miles NE of Sydney, this place is best known for it's beach and surf activities.
To be honest, this would be enough to put me off going there and I did hesitate.
I am someone who believes sand should be left on the beach and not carried home between my toes.
I also think that traveling across the waves on a large piece of modified fibre glass when there are perfectly good boats around seems somewhat odd. That is without also considering that a surfer rather looks like lunch on a stick to passing sharks.
Anyway, I did go and found it to be a very pleasant place.
If anyone is laughing at the name because of it sounds like the description of some handsome lifeguard..well.. stop laughing because it's closer to the truth than you think.
Apparently, the name was indeed a tribute to the apparent manliness of the locals
Manly was, in fact named by Captain Arthur Phillip who said about the local people "their confidence and manly behaviour made me give the name of Manly Cove to this place"
At one point, the locals demonstrated their "manliness" by throw a spear through Captain Phillip's shoulder but it was just a kind of misunderstanding and he apparently forgave them.
Manly became a "seaside town" in the mid 19th century and was the scene of an interesting case of "people-power". Apparently, until 1902, it was forbidden to bathe in the sea in daytime although it is a little unclear about the exact objections except that there were no changing facilities so perhaps it was feared people would be inappropritely dressed, if at all. So at that time, if you wanted to swim you had to wait for darkness.
This greatly displeased a local newspaper man, William Gocher, who announced he would swim at midday (he was very modestly dressed in a neck to knee costume). For his first two swims, the police hesitated to do anything and he had to make 3 bathings and taunt the police before he was indeed arrested (but actually never charged)
The law was changed 12 months later and William Gocher was presented with a gold watch and 50 Sovereigns (pounds) by friends.
This change led very soon to the popularity of surfing.
CLOSING REMARKS
Sydney is a fascinating and complex city and I enjoyed every minute there. Here are just a few more picture memories...
AND THANKS .... To Wolfang and Hedy for giving me their time and showing me around the town of Bullaburra. If I am in this area again, I definitely want to spend more time in the Blue Mountains
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